Getting perspective
Today Vietnam is a communist nation with a free-market economy, and considered one of the safest nations in the world. With 84 million people, it is one of Southeast Asia’s vibrant ‘Little Tiger’ economies. A number of Vietnam War veterans were on the vessel, many returning for closure from the war (1959 to 1975), others bringing family members to share with them an important piece of their personal history. I found that for most Vietnamese people the war is past tense, and a let ‘bygones-be-bygones’ sentiment prevails.

We took a 2.5-hour bus ride to the capital city of Hanoi. Traffic was intense as bicycles, motorcycles, scooters and little cars choked the bumpy road. I noticed virtually all women wore scarves (khau trang) covering their faces. I asked if this was due to pollution, but was told that Vietnamese women prefer pale complexions. The country’s pristine beaches are often empty until 5 p.m., with locals waiting for the sun to go down.

Hanoi’s Old Quarter is located the heart of the original city, with its 36 streets named after the products for sale: Silver Street, Silk Street, etc. We were greeted with welcoming smiles from a populace that was just as interested in seeing us as we were in them. Bargaining, I learned, was essential. The French Quarter—a remnant of France’s 100 years of dominance—featured wide boulevards of tree-lined streets. Monuments to former President Ho Chi Minh (1890-1969) were everywhere. His body rests in a mausoleum where it has been embalmed for viewings. We also saw the former palace, which Ho turned into an administrative building, preferring to live in the simple servant’s quarters in back. Food for the day featured regional delicacies such as pho, spring rolls, green papaya salad and baguettes, a gift from the French era.