Riding the rails to the "Plymouth of the West"
By Ed Boitano
Balboa Park is the nation's largest urban cultural park
I remember the days when a car trip from Los Angeles to San Diego was a supreme pleasure. Once past the maze of the hustle and bustle of LA, the landscape opened and the drive was as gentle as a Pacific Coast wave. Sadly, those days are gone. Former orchards and farms have been replaced with massive housing complexes, and the highways consist of gridlock bumper-to-bumper traffic as bad as any of the rush hour jams in LA. As the years have gone by, my car trips to San Diego ended. But there was a problem – I really missed my occasional weekend visits to the city known as The Plymouth of the West. I recently found an answer – AMTRAK. The Pacific Surfliner offers 11 round trips daily from San Diego to Los Angeles. Once again the journey to San Diego can be as enjoyable as a visit to the city itself. On a recent trip stunning coastal views raced past my window. Luxuriating in a first-class compartment the seating was spacious and relaxing, and the complimentary wine and snacks were a pleasant surprise. The four-hour journey ended before I knew it. Arriving at the Santa Fe Depot, I discovered that I didn’t need a car or even want one. The San Diego Metropolitan Transit System Bus and Trolley allows you to be car-free in the city. The purchase of a three-day Day Tripper pass transported me to all my favorite attractions. A short trolley ride took me to the new Hotel Indigo located in the heart of the vibrant East Village. Once a derelict warehouse district, the East Village has been redefined with the completion of the PETCO Park baseball stadium. Now downtown’s hippest neighborhood, the area features luxury hotels, condominiums, residential/work lofts, restaurants and galleries. Who would have thought that the once sleepy San Diego would become a national role model for urban renewal? The chic Hotel Indigo is the only LEED certified green hotel in San Diego (there are only 19 in the U.S.). Virtually all the building materials used were recycled products, with a design reflecting Fibonacci numbers and plant spirals, creating a harmonious ambience. Creature comforts included spa-like baths, 37-inch flat panel HDTVs, designer furnishings, plush bedding, sleek hardwood floors and complimentary high-speed Internet access. Sitting in the ninth floor Phi Bar Terrace I gazed in wonder at PETCO Park’s field while looking through the menu that offers healthy eating choices with an emphasis on local foods. Attractions Old Town is the first permanent European settlement in California. In 1769, Father Juniper Serrano established a chain of 21 missions, each situated a day’s horse ride away. Today the San Diego Mission overlooks a collection of historic adobe buildings, shops and restaurants. The Old Town Trolley tour is the best way to get an overview of what is considered the birthplace of California Balboa Park is the nation’s largest urban cultural park. Home to 14 museums, performing arts venues and spectacular gardens, it is a must-see attraction. Admittance to the grounds is free, but there is a charge for a number of the attractions. The Stay-for-the-Day offers admission to your choice of any four of the 14 participating attractions. The 100-acre San Diego Zoo is a sanctuary for over a thousand animals. It is a place to learn about conservation efforts that are being implemented to protect wildlife from extinction. The setting is stunning with exotic plant life throughout the park. Start your tour with a tram ride that offers a comprehensive overview of the zoo. Little Italy dates back to the days of San Diego’s fishing industry when generations of Italian fisherman called the area home. Today Little Italy is a vibrant neighborhood of restaurants, pubs, galleries and shops. It also features a world-class Saturday farmer’s market. Make sure you visit the ‘urchin lady,’ who offers tastings and the history of the Southern California urchin. The historic Gaslamp Quarter, close to the East Quarter, is lined with Victorian-era buildings, housing restaurants, pubs, galleries, theaters and shops. At night, it takes on a madcap, party-like atmosphere. For history buffs, the Victorian-style Horton Grand Hotel was once the seven-year home of Wyatt Earp. A trip to the USS Midway Museum was how I ended my last San Diego weekend. The collection of 60 exhibts and 25 restored planes aboard the aircraft carrier is a heartfelt tribute to the men and women who have served our country. The tour colored my thoughts as I strolled back to the Santa Fe Depot for my AMTRAK train ride back home. While I had truly experienced San Diego I was well aware there was still more to see. So, I will be back – and now I know how to get there. For further information you can log on to: AMTRAK.com, SanDiego.org or HotelIndigo.com/sandiego
